Monday, October 24, 2011

Made it to LA

Howdy...after just an awesome 30 hours of traveling, I have made it to my dad's place in California. Just one more flight to Florida and I'll complete the full round the world trip...took a hair over 80 days though!

I'll continue to post photos to the photos page over the next couple of days if you are interested...I still have Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam to put up.

Thanks for following the blog and for all the comments along the way!

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Mangos: For eating...not for rubbing on the skin !!! (Saigon)

Made it to Vietnam... Arrived unexpectedly late and wound up walking for a while and meeting Dylan and his wonderful girlfriend Grace for dinner in District 1. It was a very strange feeling to be walking through such a chaotic and foreign place, and then to see a familiar person standing there in the scene! Saigon seems unique against some of the other Asian cities I have been to...not sure exactly why yet, maybe the pictures will show it...give me a couple more days. I have been borrowing an extra motorbike from Dylan and riding around the city with him. INSANITY...no road rules, hundreds of thousands of people on motorbikes, on foot, in buses beeping and merging through each other at intersections in a way that makes you want to live for today...there will be photos and possible some video! One of the first things we did was go and visit some local fruit markets...being in a tropical rainforest this place has cheap access to loads of amazing fruit....more than half of which I have never laid buds on before...very exciting. I discovered the best fruit ever...not a great fruit or an amazing fruit mind you, but the best fruit. Now, you might say to yourself, "well that's a bit subjective"...but you would be wrong. It's called a mangosteen, and it's right up there at the top of the page, and it's the best fruit ever...passion fruit is pretty tasty too.

Dylan then discovered that he has a pretty serious allergy to Mango sap...this photo is actually from the early stages...those blisters continued to grow over the next day or so and are now about three times as big with several new arrivals as well. At first he thought it was the very serious flesh eating bacterial skin condition "necrotizing fasciitis" which wouldn't be out of the question here in the jungle...but after I got a touch of it as well we put our heads together and narrowed it down to mango sap from the fruit market...apparently it can have effects similar to poison ivy, and in some people (like Dylan) cause severe skin reactions! He seems to be recovering somewhat, but it is still pretty gross. Getting used to the currency  here takes a little time...I have gotten used to doing the conversions in my head, but this is the first time I have had to deal with being a millionaire...in Dongs anyway. The other night we went out and got about half a millions' worth of sushi...I was responsible for about 300,000.00 worth of the damage personally...


I am looking forward to getting to try all of the things that you can sometimes miss when you are just traveling and passing through a place. Dylan has been here for over a year, and that is a pretty cool perspective. I am also keeping my fingers crossed that my blisters don't grow to the size of his, and that I didn't scratch my backside during the critical spreading time window!






Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Cambodia

I don't think I can say that I "saw" Cambodia...I really just passed through. I was ready to be in one place for a while and keen to make it to Vietnam. Also, it wasn't originally on the plan, so I didn't  have any idea where I wanted to go or what I wanted to see. But, I am really glad that I did pass through because it is an interesting and unique place...with a very rich history. I arrived in Siem Reap from Laos and did the Angkor Wat temple complex and Tong Sap Lake. Siem Reap is surrounded by hundreds of temples built around 1100. They are magnificent accomplishments, especially for the time period, and are definitely landing a spot in my top cultural attractions of the trip...they are an awesome sight. Tong Sap Lake is mostly the result of a weird phenomenon caused by the rainy season making a portion of the Mekong river backfill the valley creating an enormous lake (12,00 km2) for part of the year. I took a boat trip to see one of the famous "floating villages" , which turned out to be another great experience. Although popular with tourists, it appealed to me because tourism was not the sole reason for it's existence...you could tell it was life as usual as we slowly made our way up main "street". The village stands pretty far out out in the lake, above the water level, and is full of people getting on with everyday life...but in an unusual way. It made me wonder if Venice might have looked like this at it's beginning. Probably the most notable departure from normal village life were the pig pens built outside the houses on stilts above the water...I guess they can tire of even the freshest fish after a while!

Leaving on the bus for Phnom Phenh, I was on the last leg of my brief shared journey with my new Australian friends...another couple of great people I have gotten to know along the way. I said goodbye to them at the station, got a room, but quickly decided it was time I made it to Vietnam. The following morning I set off for Ho Chi Minh city. It was a beautiful bus ride, taking about 6 hours. Sitting on the bus, I had the sudden realization that my adventure was coming to a close (well, this one anyway). It's funny because this was the expected finish line from the start, but as I got further and further along I think I forgot that it was all to be done in a year, and that there was an end to it. I now have some decisions to make about what to do next, and all I know is whichever I choose has to include making some money, which has a terrible habit of running out!

Bye Laos!

Well, the "Kayaking" to Vientiane turned out to be kind of a scam...but it all worked out. It was supposed to be an alternative to taking the bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane...but...they undersold the ratio of time spent riding in the back of a truck to the time spent actually kayaking. Wound up spending about 4 of the 5 hours in a truck breathing in some wonderful exhaust, and the other hour in the kayak. The only part that really bothered me about this was being explicitly lied to...having traveled for a while now, I have gotten in the habit of asking lots of very specific questions before buying something like this...but that didn't help here, they just told me whatever I wanted to hear. The name of the company is TCK Amazing Tour (should be TCK Crappy Tour). I say this only so that in about 30 years when the google search engine spiders find this page, that maybe it will save someone the same experience. The upside and more interesting part of the story is that the hour spent on the Kayak was one of the more exhilarating I have had on the trip! The river section we did had three sets of rapids and one was guaranteed to make you flip...in actuality, two of them made me flip, but they were all great! I will definitely be looking into where I can do this at home! Arriving in Vientiane, meh, not much to speak of actually. It is the capital of Laos and I saw some interesting temples and such, but all in all, I have seen plenty of places with more character. Upon review of the bus timetables to continue south through the mountainous territory of central Laos on the nonexistent roads, I gave in and did something unspeakable...I changed my plans and flew directly to Cambodia...just don't think I could bear the idea of another 18 hour bus ride at this point in the trip!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Laos

The last few days: Passed through immigration and crossed the border into Laos with surprisingly little hassle...just pay Laos immigration $35 US and you're as good as gold. For being a border town, Huay Xai struck me as a pretty nice place, and I immediately noticed that everything was a little more chilled out than on the Thai side. There were still people trying to get you into their restaurants or offering you a ride, but here you get the impression that they are just offering...which is a breath of fresh air. The following morning I boarded the "Slow Boat" (they weren't lyin') for Pak Beng, stayed a night, and continued on the even slower slow boat trip to Luang Prabang. The boat experience was interesting...really long, narrow river boats with rows and rows of car seats bolted to the floor. The scenery along the way was awesome for the first couple of hours. Ultimately it was a good choice because they kept cold beer on board and it was just as long as the bus would have been...and the bus doesn't have cold beer! The long trip gave me a chance to get to know a couple of pretty cool people, and two Australians (one actual Australian, one pseudo Australian)...we all whiled away the long hours with card games and cold Beer Lao. Beer Lao, by the way, is a very respectable beer, especially compared to what I have been drinking in Thailand, and is Laos' #1 export. Coming in at $1 for a 32 ounc-er, it's a smart choice!

Arriving finally in Luang Prabang after two days on the river, I was happy to find it to be a pretty unique place. Left over from the French Colonial period, it seems a bit out of place in the middle of the jungle. It has been pretty well preserved through the world heritage program, and the streets are lined with period buildings and houses. Alongside the Lao food fare, there are vendors selling crepes and fresh baguettes...a strange mix, and not really good to be eaten together. After 2 days of looking around, I decided to keep going. It was a good base to do trekking to waterfalls and such, but given the amount of jungle I have seen, I am not too keen to be paying anyone to walk me around in it at this point. Also I am now in the double red malaria zone, so I am playing it a little extra careful!

After the bumpiest, most scenic, most nerve racking, craziest 7 hours of my life bus ride I have ever been on, I arrived in what I was fairly warned would be the armpit of Laos, and boy were they right. This place is a stinking, rotten cesspool that is tourism at it's worst. There is not a shred of culture left here...it has become a stop off on the way to the capital city where all of the sort of backpackers I have been avoiding have descended in droves to indulge in buckets of alcohol, cheap food, and American sitcoms. If I here the into song to "Friends" one more time I might cry. Needless to say, I am only staying one night. If the weather holds, I think I am going to skip the bus ride to Vientiane and Kayak there instead! I am pretty excited about this...so I hope it works out. That should be my last stop in Laos, and then I'll be headed to Vietnam...

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Laos Bound!

After much deliberation and several changes of plan, I have decided to stick to my original plan and cross the border here in Norther Thailand to Laos (a very safe and stable country!). The weather here makes it or breaks it, and although I am little ready to head out of the jungle, there are an awesome couple of days of sunshine expected for this part of Laos, and i am going to take advantage! Anyhow, I have bunch of mosquito repellant left, and I don't want to waste it!

Last Day: Chiang Khong to Phu Chee Fah

Despite being a bit road weary at this point, this was a really rewarding day of riding. I am much more comfortable on the bike now; much more relaxed and not nearly as jumpy when someone with a cart full of melons (or something) pulls up to a quick stop at an intersection ahead. Almost back at 100% from the spicy salad ordeal, I was able to focus on the scenery which was the most stunning so far on the loop. The road, which was of surprising quality for it's remoteness, wound it's through the jungle mountains along the Thai - Laos border with frequent views of the rolling hills below that seemed to stretch out for a hundred miles. The temperature change going up into these higher elevations was even more drastic than the first day. In fact, it was down right cold...which is a strange sensation when you've been riding through jungle scenery for days, sweating, and are suddenly freezing in the same surroundings. This temperature difference also created a strange and very surreal effect: High above me were the standard clouds, but here there was a second set down below, drifting just between the tops of the lower hills. This gave the feeling that you were looking down from a much greater height. Occasionally, one of these would drift up on the wind and instantly blanket everything in misty white. Then, just as fast, it would be gone again. The slopes of the red dirt hills here seemed impossible, looking like they shouldn't even stand if they were made of rock...and sometimes they didn't. In several places large sections had slid off to cover the road. With the original plants still attached,  it looked like there was no road at all. Once, as I was about to round a corner, I was stopped by a man with a sign I didn't understand. He was clearly telling me to wait, but for what or for how long I had no idea. After a few minutes I started wondering what the deal was and if I might be able to convince him somehow that I needed to keep moving...then BOOOOM! The blast made me jump, and from around the corner I saw a shower of rock and dirt get thrown over the edge of the hill...the road was clear. It's good to listen to people with red signs.

Shortly after I gave in to the cold and damp and stopped for the night. The following day would take me back out of the hills, and back to Chaing Rai to return the bike. As soon as I came down out of the jungle and turned on to the main road, the towns were much larger and.the cafes once again sported either a Pepsi or Coke sign to greet you. The last few days have been an incredible look into "real" Thai life, and I am so glad that I got to experience that along with what I have seen to far. The very best spots were those found during the day, off the map, along the way!

Mai Sai to Chiang Khong

Left the border town of Mai Sai nicely rested, and had a easy day of riding. Passed the golden triangle, which is a spot on the river where the borders of Thailand, Burma, and Laos form a three way corner. The opium trade used to flourish here, making it a very famous spot...but as they no longer grow or process opium, it is now just a terrible tourist trap based on a geographic location. I was quasi interested, but as I rolled up to the sight of thousands of Chinese tourists mulling around several massive tour buses with cameras on tripods clicking away...well I just kept on rolling. It was an uneventful day until my ever growing sense of food adventure confidence caused Dylan's words (if it's from a street vendor, make sure you see it cooked in front of you) to escape  me momentarily...well it turns out these words of advice apply to salads as well. A salad seems harmless enough, but alas, it was not cooked in front of me. I got back on the bike, very satisfied with having tried the famous spicy Thai salad that I had been hearing so much about; the warning signs started almost immediately. As I approached Chiang Khong, I was sure of what I was in for. The feeling of being punched in the stomach lasted for about a day and a half and I slept it off in the guesthouse...all the while saving on food costs! I got to closely observe the local lizard in a way I would not have otherwise...they look like geckos, chirp like birds, and spend most of there time waiting upside down on the ceiling for something tasty to land nearby. They are everywhere, but people like them around for their mosquito hunting skills, as did I. After a 48 hour white rice diet, I am basically back in action!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Here's lookin' at you, Burma

After a successful day, I am sitting in a very nice bamboo and wicker bungalow in the far north of Thailand, looking across the river that separates Thailand and Burma. It was a long driving day...I started out by going down some of the dirt trails that went to the villages surrounding Mae Salong. It was a look back in time at people living self sufficiently off of the land, but with a handful of modern things thrown in the mix. After that I made way towards Mai Sai...the long way round. I made the long way even longer by getting myself nice and lost, and almost drove into Burma through a non border crossing area, but I'm pretty sure they would have stopped me. From there it was smooth sailing through some of the most stunning scenery imaginable...an awesome drive, perfect for the bike. The last stretch was the best...21 km due north right along a mountain crest that forms a natural border between the two countries. It is a highly watched area and I had to pass through military checkpoints every couple of miles. It is a bit disconcerting to see kids looking about half my age holding automatic weapons...they were all really nice though. The good news for me was that it was almost all downhill, because I was about out of gas and was under the impression that this would probably be the absolute worst place on this little adventure to run out of gas. I rolled all the way to Mai Sai...no problem. There is a border crossing here, but I don't think I'm going to go to Burma...I like the idea of sitting here with a cold beer and watching it across the river...

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Mae Salong: Some good news...and some bad news...

Isn't that always the way?... Wasn't expecting to have internet tonight, but I am glad I do as I had an awesome day....which is the good news! First, I managed to get moving pretty early...got into town (Chiang Rai) and got a very nice map of Northern Thailand for less than a dollar by trading in another map I had. Then a rain poncho, because after all this is a jungle and, like Ireland, it's green for a reason! Next I got myself set up with a small engine motorbike, left the majority of my stuff at the guesthouse I stayed in the previous night, and I was off! Once I made the turn off the main road into the mountains, the ride was incredible! The road winds in and out of jungle hills, rice paddys, banana groves, and rivers (mom: if you can clear it with customs I can bring back about 100,000 baby banana trees in case your's don't make it). As soon as I started to climb up into the hills the temp began to drop as well...it has to be at least 10 degrees cooler up here which is such a relief after the last couple of weeks. It felt like someone just switched on the AC at one point...it was that quick a change. The owner of tonight's guesthouse told me that this is where Thai "tourists" come to escape the heat.

Having arrived in Mae Salong, I couldn't be happier. This is the sort of place I was hoping to find coming to Thailand...it is a village perched up in the mountains surrounded by tea plantations and beautiful scenery. I have not seen a western tourist all day, and in connection with that, the locals seem even friendlier than usual...which is saying something! I had an awesome dinner with several cups of local tea which I saw coming right up out of the fields. I am really looking forward to the next few days as I move further and further from the bustle and exhaust of the cities down south.

So whats the bad news in that? Well, just before dinner I took the bike up to the peak of the mountain that looks down on Mae Salong, atop of which sits a beautiful temple. As is customary, I took off my shoes before entering and went in to have a look around. While I was inside a light rain began to fall which gave the marble flight of steps out back a nice slicking up. Still inside, I made a donation to the Buddha, and then went out the back way to my demise. Despite thinking to myself as I went out the door, "man I bet that marble is slick...I had better be careful on that"...well lets just say it only took me three steps to get down a set of steps that should have taken at least 10. I landed on my good ankle (I'll head Haley off here  and say that at least I'm walking a bit more evenly now), and despite the ridiculous smoothness of the marble, still managed to cut my hand. But the real hero is my camera which selflessly decided to save my backside by being in my back pocket and taking the brunt of the fall. The camera's sacrifice will not be forgotten, but unfortunately I won't be posting any photos for a while. Despite the loss of the camera and the injury I am still in a pretty good mood...if you could have seen where it happened, you would agree that it could really have been much worse (but you can't cause I couldn't take a picture)...

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Headed off the map!

Well, it was a long journey from the southern islands to the north...very long country. Went back to Bangkok by ferry, and then by bus. Then took the boat train (the tracks were flooded but they went for it anyway) to Chiang Mai, and then finally to Chiang Rai. I'm starting to feel like all the cities are looking a bit alike...sooooo...I have decided to rent a bike and take a week to go see the mountains in the far north along the Burma and Lao borders. Found a nicely planned itinerary online, and I'm gonna go for it. So, I'll probably be disconnected for a bit...I expect to be back to Chiang Rai in about a week. Here is the plan if anyone is interested. And I'm off !!!!!!!!  Woooo Hoooo !!!!

Travel Plan Link


Sunday, September 11, 2011

New Photos...

If you are following along with the photos...I have put a bunch up from Ko Phi Phi. The link is below...or always on the right side of this main page. By the way...an easy way to view them is to click on the album and then click the slideshow button at the top of the page. Once that loads you can click the "Show Info" button near the top of the page to see the comments and titles...

Trip Photos Link!

Ko Lanta

After about 5 days, I have trekked, kayaked, and swam over almost all of Phi Phi island...and it's time to put it in the rear view mirror! Boarded the boat for Ko Lanta (another Thai island nearby), and about an hour later, I was there. Spent most of the hour frantically trying to dry and / or wash my passport, computer, chargers, wallet, etc. Lesson learned: coke cans are not as thick over here...i.e., don't put one in the small bag you carry around will all of your most important stuff that you want to keep an eye on. Several times since then I have set the computer down somewhere for a couple of hours and returned to find a procession of sugar ants headed inside it searching out the last remnants of that sweet American goodness. At least it's being enjoyed by something.

Ko Lanta is not really that different from Ko Phi Phi, but considering the geographic closeness of these two places, I would say that the differences are remarkable. Being far less "touristed" than it's neighbor, Lanta really shows the effects that tourism is having on the country. This Island definitely offers a picture of traditional Thai island life that was impossible to see on Phi Phi where almost every person and resource was devoted to the tourist trade. It's a shame that tourism can change the feel of a place so completely, and that you have to get further and further off the map to see the things you went there to see. Anyhow, to aid in getting off that map a bit, my Norwegian friend and I decided to rent motorcycles and just drive. I think the first sign that this might be a bad idea was the fact that an alarming percentage of the other tourists that had been around a few days were bandaged in one way or another with wraps and slings off all shapes and sizes. A little investigating found that these were exclusively the result of motorbike accidents. Despite the risks, they were all tempted by the complete freedom of having the bike, which, with fuel, cost less than $10 per day to rent. I was just as tempted, and now I have a broken arm...good thing for travel insurance, huh? Actually, I'm just making sure you're still awake...I rode almost 200km all over that island (yes, with a helmet) and had a blast with no problems at all...but I can see how they can be a bit dangerous...especially in a place with effectively no road rules! The most entertaining actual accident I heard of was a couple of girls who rented the bike from the hotel, saddled up and slowly puttered up to the main road. They stopped, looked both ways, and then floored it launching themselves across the road at full speed into a ditch full of black muck on the opposite side. They and the bike then sank into the murk...no major injuries. We avoided the ditches and various other obstacles and went to the deserted northern part of the island, fishing villages on the east side, and the national park in the south. We even found a pier with a long tail boat (pictured in album) and hired it for a couple of hours to take us around a limestone island with lots of sea caves off the coast.

Tho other really remarkable thing about this place was the Muslim influenced Thai food...absolutely amazing. I will be learning to make some of these dishes when I get home...I have never been introduced to so many new flavors and spices in such a short time...a real treat! I am now ready to more on, and I have more than 24 hours of travel time to look forward to as I relocate to Chang Mai in the northern part of the country, which I guess is longer than it looks! Sorry about the arm joke...

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Thailand's Islands

It only took about two days in the Khao San Road area to become pretty overwhelmed, so I saw as much of the nearby "old town" as I could before heading off to a different area near the embassies to arrange some visas and see a different part of Bangkok. I found a guesthouse with good internet and hit the books to find the next place. Despite it being the rainy season, it turned out that there was to be a rare week long weather window for the southern islands...so I began trying to pick which one to visit (terrible problem, I know...but there are lots to choose from). Phi Phi Island was looking good for a first stop, so I boarded an overnight bus (12 hours) with a Norwegian guy from the guesthouse who was headed the same direction. He is also traveling alone, so we figured we would stick together for a while (and no, Krista has not been replaced by a harry nordic guy... just to head off that question). The only notable experiences from the bus ride were the very stylized curtains on the inside of the bus (as seen in photos) and the television program that everyone else seemed to be enjoying that made me want to throw myself out the emergency exit window. The following morning we arrived in Phuket, took a look around, and decided the town was best experienced as a bus station. There was a boat leaving for Phi Phi at 10am...and I was on it!

The first thing you see after the hour long crossing are the jungle covered limestone formations that give these islands their unique appearance. With cameras clicking away, the boat pulled up to the dock at Phi Phi and I got ready to run the usual gauntlet of hotel, taxi, and attraction touts that always collect in an area that regularly pushes out fresh tourists. The competition among hotels is high in the low season here, so I did some price shopping around town until I had sweat away every last drop of water in my body...but at the last minute found an amazing deal that just got the day off to the right start...

From there it was a good mix of off the map exploring, relaxing at the infinity pool included with the room, and enjoying some cheap (served in a bucket) beach-side drinks. An interesting side note about the bucket drinks is that if you find 25 buckets that others have abandoned (or drink 25 yourself), you get a free bucket drink. I decided this was the greatest thing since sliced bread, gave it a shot, and indeed did get a free bucket of drink. The only problem with combing the beach for abandoned plastic buckets when you are already living out of a bag is the feeling of walking that seemingly finer and finer line between traveler and homelessness.

Anyhow, Evan (the Norwegian guy) is obsessed with photodocumenting (word?) every grain of sand along the way...so I have plenty of photos to highlight the island...

Next we are headed to Ko Lanta, which is supposed to be much further off the tourist map, and on the way back to the mainland... :)

Monday, August 29, 2011

Photo Descriptions...

A rainy afternoon here has aided me in finishing all the photo descriptions on my photo page...I need to stop taking so many!

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Khao San Road, Bangkok

My last day in this part of town was pretty interesting...First: I finally found someone selling umbrellas, so now the rain aint' got nuthin' on me, literally! Under my new protective cover, I set out to tour some of the old town's Wats (temples). The tuk tuks can smell someone trying to do a self guided walking tour from kilometers away, and they were after me the entire time. I did trick one onto giving me a map of the area by pretending to be interested in a suit though! Eventually I did escape them and managed to get around to some of the lesser traveled parts of town, see several wats, and try some pretty amazing eats (have no idea what any of it was, except for the noodles). The wats are exceptional...everything is encrusted with gold and multi-colored glass. Every square inch of some of these places is decorated by hand with the tiniest and most intricate patterns imaginable. The Wat Pho, for example, was under renovation and there was a monk repainting, very slowly, an area about one inch squared. Zooming out, you see that this pattern covers a section of the wall and windows about 30 feet by at least a hundred feet long. As incredible as they were, I headed back a little early because they all do look a bit similar. I hope to find some in interesting locales in the northern part of the country. I really didn't want to be the guy snapping a hundred photos inside the temples, so I'll just put a couple up of the places I saw.

Arriving back at home base, I needed something to help me unwind from all the excitement. How does some spicy thai noodles, a big cold beer, and two hours of Thai massage sound? Sounded pretty good to me. That woman must have cracked every vertibret in my back...honestly I didn't know I had that many. I will sleep well tonight. Entire day > $20 (including umbrella)

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Water water everywhere, thankfully also plenty to drink

My timing getting back to my room last night was spot on...just after finishing the anonymous meat dinner the skies opened up and released a ridiculous amount rain. This morning the stomach and related systems were all in check, which I was pretty excited about (time to get more adventurous!). By the time I hit the street it was already about 90F and 90% humidity. Hot and moist and moist and hot. I'm getting used to it...just takes a little while. The people here don't even seem to notice.

Turns out that it's Saturday today (haven't been paying attention), so the Embassies are closed. As such, I set off for the notorious Khao San Road to secure some ultra-budget accommodation till Monday rolls around. To get there I did something that I have been told to avoid...The cheapest taxis here will haggle with you for a flat, and very attractive, rate...but this includes a stop off at a business of some sort. The driver tells you that he gets a gasoline credit from the shop owner if you'll just go in a look around for a bit. It sounded like a pain, but strangely I was a bit curious and went with it. We stopped at a tailor, and I went in, looked around, turned down a suit and an alligator skin belt, and left within 5 minutes. It was a bit weird, but I did get a really cheap air conditioned ride across town.

 The buzz of activity and sales offers on Khao San Road is ten times what I described from the area I was in last night...but I'm already getting a bit used to it. The first obvious positive to all this is that the food vendors on the streets could probably all be head chefs in Thai and Indian restaurants back home. Seriously good food! Cheap! ($1 - $2)  Walking takes some skill...both in not getting run over by things and finding quasi-nice ways to ignore the hundreds of people trying to get your attention.... It's raining again, so I have scheduled some time in my "fan room" for staring up at the ceiling and pretending it's snowing. This may transition into a nap with dreaming about snow...

Friday, August 26, 2011

Bangkok

Apparently my cell phone doesn't auto update it's clock for new time zones, because I was about 1 grain of rice shy of missing my flight to Bangkok due to thinking I had an extra hour to work with. I won't go into all the details, but it was reallllly close and pretty stressful. Bangkok is a crazy place...definitely not somewhere you want to be arriving already stressed out, so luckily for me it all worked out and I had the 11 hour plane ride to calm down.

First Impressions: Free Sauna! Everywhere! Wow this place is hot and sticky...you would have thought they built it in the middle of the jungle or something. Walking around with the pack is going to be kept to an absolute minimum, and some things will be left behind. There are a million things going on around you...market stalls, food vendors, tailors, travel agents, massage parlors all offering their services. And as far as blending in to avoid that sort of thing, I might as well be wearing a Richard Simmons hot pink leopard print liatard (actually that would probably blend in better). I walked down and got dinner from one of a long line of food vendors on the street. I wasn't yet brave enough to attempt to order from some of the more complicated (and tastier) looking stalls, so I went with some anonymous seasoned meat sticks (fingers crossed) and fried rice pattys. My friend Dylan told me to make sure it was physically being cooked right there, so that's what I decided with. I guess that advice comes from a couple of his personal "mourning after dinner" episodes...but I didn't really want to know so I didn't ask. The vegetable noodle places look the best, and when I'm feeling a bit less overwhelmed tomorrow I think I'll being going for those (using the point and nod method).  I need to find an umbrella...it rains a lot here apparently. Oddly enough, for all of the stuff being sold to me whilst walking around, no one tried to sell me an umbrella, which I would have bought. Well, I'm going to get some much needed shut eye. Goodnight from the other side of the world! Embassy hunting tomorrow...

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Leaving of Ireland

Well, it's about time to be hittin' the ole' dusty trail again. Came to Ireland for three weeks and stayed for three months...met some great people, and had some great crack (good times), and way too much Guinness. I leave for Dublin in the morning, and then I'll fly out the next day. I have finally sorted through the hundreds and hundreds of photos that have been collecting dust in the memory stick, and got them online. I think they tell the story best, so have a look through if you can. I hope to be able to get online and give some first impressions of Bangkok after I arrive...I have heard that it is pretty overwhelming at first. Long couple of days ahead...I'm excited and uncertain and everything in between. Can't wait to get there!

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Achill Island

After a 9 or so hour bus ride, we arrived in Achill Island, a very isolated and beautiful "island" on the west coast of Ireland. I suppose it is called an island for tourist reasons as you could probably walk to the mainland at low tide. The job here is the general running of a backpacker hostel as well as working in the pub. Despite the remote location, there is a steady stream of people from all over coming through the hostel as well as a regular group of locals at the pub...so it has stayed interesting. We are also working with 5 other volunteers from all over.

Climbing mountains: From the hostel here you can see the peak of Schleife More when the top is not obstructed from view by a very ominous looking cloud. It wasn't long before I decided I needed to be up there looking down, so I set off one afternoon with another American and a French guy (who is apparently in much better shape than me) for the top. We decided to go up the steep side along a craggy ridge that ran all the way to the top. Luckily, the entire mountain is covered with peat that naturally forms steps, so the footing was easier than it looked from the bottom. About two hours and several rest breaks later, (except for our french mountain goat friend) we were at the top. To greet us there was what must have been a 50 mph wind pulling bits of cloud down out of the sky along the cliffs to the ocean below. It felt as though we were in a wind tunnel. We sat down behind an unnatural pile of stones at the very top to get out of the wind, but not before adding one more stone to the peak out of respect, as is the tradition.

Homeward bound: After more than 6 months of traveling together, the day has sadly come for Krista and I to part ways. On Tuesday we went together to Dublin for her to catch her flight to Chicago. As I headed back to Achill alone, I couldn't help but wonder what it would be like to go it alone for a while. Admittedly,  we weren't sure before hand what it would be like to spend almost 24 hours a day together for 6 months, but it couldn't have turned out better. Having someone to share in the experiences, the excitement, and the difficulties has been really rewarding. I will miss her very much and hope it isn't long before we can meet up down under!

The Big Leap: The travel plan was pretty well mapped out up until now...and as of yesterday I didn't really know what I was going to do next. Airfare prices are on the rise and my Irish visa is expiring in two weeks, so the time has come to put the pen to the map once again, and I think this next move is going to be a bit more of a shock than before. The plan so far is to fly into Bangkok, Thailand and travel overland through Laos and into Vietnam. After several cups of coffee and some rare quite in the early morning hours here,  I have laid out the bare bones of a three or four week trek: From Bangkok to the islands of southern Thailand...then north to Chang Mai, crossing the border into Laos to follow the Mekong river south, east into Vietnam, and south along the coast to Saigon where my friend Dylan is living. I am both exited and nervous and have no idea what to expect...but that's the best part!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Last Days at the Garden...

Upon completing the bike trip, we returned to the garden where we had been previously to find it busy and excited. The opening day was only a few days out...this is what we had been preparing for during our entire stay. Worked two long days, but got the place looking good and ready to open. Although a little wet
(standard and expected in Ireland) it went well and there were plenty of people in attendance,  including some high ranking public officials...so that was interesting. We watched on for a while and then took a good long nap.

This next part is pretty exciting: That evening, we took a walk (after waking up from the nap). This was to be just an ordinary walk, which is how it started, and then...ABANDONED CASTLE!!! Hidden from view by the trees, but no more than a mile from where we had been for almost two months on the only road we hadn't walked down was an abandoned castle from the 16th century, in great shape considering, completely un-touristed and forgotten about. Can you imagine the adventure oozing from such a place? Sure there was a "Danger, Do Not Enter!" sign, but as you know, those can often be wrong, so we went at it and it was very impressive. Staircases, a murder hole, fireplaces, storerooms all there. Pictures on the photo page. Awesome is all I can say, I only wish I had found it sooner!

Didn't get too many photos of the garden because they had so many. If you want to see what it looked like, check out this Video

Meanwhile, in my inbox, an email lie in waiting. It was an invite from a hostel on the west coast who needed some helpers pronto to get ready for their biggest weekend of the year, and then to stay on for a couple of weeks afterward. So, as we have been in one spot for a good while and it's not good to keep opportunity waiting, we packed up, said our goodbyes,  and set off right after the garden opening. Thanks soooo much to everyone who made our stay so much fun and took us out again and again...we got to do and see so much while here!

Onward ! 

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

All Photos Posted !!!

They got internet installed while we were away, so I have uploaded all the backlogged photos! I managed to do titles and descriptions up to Pompeii, but it is almost 2am so I'll have to finish the rest later. Hope you enjoy!

TRIP PHOTOS

Day 17

Hi All,

Well, the long and short of it is this: We sat in the tent in Killarney for another three days waiting for the rain to stop and went into a cafe for some internet. We pulled up the weather and it was predicted to blow and pour for another four days. Now, the rugged, perservering thing to do would have been to pull on the rain gear, pack up the wet tent, and weather the storm. The sensible thing to do, on the other hand, would be to say, "everything is wet, this sucks...lets throw it all on a bus and go back to a warm bed, a hot meal, and a dryer". I'll pause a minute and give you a chance to place your bets..
...    ...  . ... .. ... ......... . . ...
SO we're back at the garden at the HelpX...a fun, trying, rewarding, and very interesting bike trip under our slightly looser belts! About 1,000 km biked (I'll have to double check that), 2 weeks spent, about 20 pounds lost (between both of us), and plenty seen!

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Day 9 to 14

Day 8 Evening: The Cliffs of Moher were awesome! We have heard this place talked up so much since arriving in Ireland that it started to sound like a tourist trap, but we were gladly mistaken! This has to be one of the most incredible natural things I have ever seen, and easily gets a top 10 spot for the trip log. We went out that night to hear some of the live music that the nearby town of Doolin is known for, but found the 2 pubs to be packed to the gills with anyone and everyone but the Irish...it turns out that Irish people don't really like Irish music. We listened for a while in one of the pubs, and then went outside to enjoy the sunset and a nice Irish evening. There was a pizza box on our table, and after the standard and acceptable length of time, we found it to be very tasty...we wondered to ourselves over this delicious meal just how fine the line is between backpacking and homelessness. We wound up chatting with a New York Fireman and his wife, who bought us each a pint of Guinness upon leaving, which put the icing on a very nice and cheap night.

Day 9: We walk our bikes up a considerable hill to leave town; we cursed it today but had praised it in the other direction 2 days ago....We had a goal in mind today to reach Listowel (about 100 K), where we had a couchsurf waiting for us. The weather was nice and we got to ride a ferryboat over the Shannon! Marshmallow dolphins on board only 40 cents! Ann, our host, showed us amazing hospitality with a warm meal and a great night out at the pub. Possibly the best Irish music listening we've had so far. Listowel is not well known, and yet again it turns out the best experiences are off the beaten path.

Day 10: We hang around in Listowel and get a private free tour of the castle, rested our cycling bums and took advantage of the cheap grocery store in town to provision for the next few days.

Day 11: We made it to Tralee in no time after the day of rest, and continued on to the Dingle Peninsula via the coastal road to avoid the mountains. We found the Inch Peninsula (Peninsula on a Peninsula)  on recommendation from Rachel and John, (hi guys) and pitched our tent in the dunes behind the peninsular beach. Luckily, just before we started to set up camp, we were kindly told by one of the other campers that we could not camp here. He was here camping "for a reason, I can't tell you the reason, but here for a reason." He was surprised when we sweet talked the farmer into letting us stay the night...disaster averted. Peninsula!

Day 12 -14: The weather turned for the worse, as it often does here. We got some sweet sweet internet in the cafe and saw that it was to be very wet for the next several days. The memory of the last downpour still fresh in our minds, we grudgingly changed course and headed away from the Ring of Kerry to Killarney. Renowned as the ring is for scenery, we knew better than to try and see it in the pouring rain with soggy spirits. So anyhow, we are here in Killarney, toured another castle during a brief dry patch, and are hiding from the rain in the tent. It should be over tomorrow and we'll be headed for Cork!

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Day 7 and 8 of Bike Trip

Things are looking up once again...the sun is shining! (its incredible how important that is for a good time...) yesterday we made it through the beautiful burren region and began to dry out. The burren is like a barren moonscape with tons of ancient dolmens (megalithic tombs) and unique landscapes. Unfortunately it is also extreeeemely hilly and tested our abilities to the max. Our arrival time was seriously pushed back and we made it about 25 measly kilometers. We arrived in Doolin for day 8, which we've been told has great trad (traditional irish music) and is a short walk from the cliffs of Moher. We are off to hike them now, actually! The weather is looking good for the next few days and we are headed south from here towards Dingle and the Ring of Kerry. Cross your fingers that the weatherman is right for once!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Bike Trip!

We are about 6 days into our cycling trip around Ireland and I am happy to report that we are still alive. It has been very interesting so far...here are some of the highlights:

Day 1: We set off from our helpx host; the bikes and gear setup looking like it would carry us about 5 miles at best (photos to come). Everyone there was amused and told us they would be happy to come get us in 24 - 48 hours when we came to our senses. With beautiful weather and a bit of giddy-up in our step (pedals), we set off toward the next town. We stopped there for some helmets (Krista insisted), and then at the Rock of Dunamase (an old besieged castle...cannon holes still in the walls). We avoided a "mountain" range and wound up in an area with no camping later that evening, so we stopped and asked if we could camp in someone's field. We expected to have to make a few requests, but the first one said "no problem", and we got our first taste of Irish Hospitality. Dinner was a can of beans and a can of corn...budget on target!

Day 2: Where is all this rain Ireland is supposed to have? We have not seen a drop and it is another gorgeous day. Butts are getting a bit tender, but holding out. We set off early to get a good stretch done. Around midday we stopped at a crossroads to check the map and Krista decided to ask for directions (I knew where we were) She ran across the street to a pub and stood getting directions for about 10 minutes while I waited, all the while knowing where we were. She then calls me over as she has gotten us invited in for tea, lunch, and some local history including a bog walk that was not on the map. That evening we crossed the Shannon River, and found a great park on the shore of a lake in Portumna. Another great day. We took dinner up a notch and made sandwiches (beans were making tent living situation unpleasant)

Day 3: Stayed in Portumna and gave the butts a rest. Toured through the Castle and gardens, camped another night for free. A terrible storm blew in that night, but the tent held up and all was looking great again in the morning.

Day 4: Portumna to Galway. Things started off just fine, but there was a slow gathering of ominous clouds on the distant horizon....probably nothing to worry about though. As the rain began to fall we pulled off to the first house we saw to ask if we could take shelter under their shed and put on our rain gear. As we waited under the cover we were asked in for tea and soda bread and sat inside, dry, watching the rain come down. Unfortunately, the rain had not stopped by the time we needed to be heading off, so we prepared to get a little wet. A little wet quickly turned into a lot wet, and it was all downhill from there (except for the road which was quite uphill). We rode into Galway that evening in the pouring rain and found a campground, set up the tent in the rain, and paid to take cold showers. Galway is where they were hiding all the rain.

Day 5: The rain continued through the day and we saw no reason to leave the tent. Paid to try and dry the previous days clothes and shoes in the camp's dryer, but wound up with damp shoes and everything else smelling like feet. While in the laundry we met two other campers and were proudly sharing the details of our bike trip, only to find that they had just completed their own from London to Istanbul, Turkey. We were very happy to be invited to their camper for some drinks, which was much dryer than our tent (despite the tent's best efforts).

Day 6: We awoke to pouring rain and waited until 2pm before deciding that we couldn't sit around waiting anymore. Cycling in the rain, it turns out, sucks. A lot. Ireland has lots of rain. Cycling in Ireland sucks. Morale is low...more on this as it develops (today is day 6)

Friday, July 1, 2011

All the Latest...

Can't believe how much time has gotten by between posts...attempts to get the internet at the garden have failed three times now and we have resolved ourselves to the fact that it's not coming at all. We have been at the garden here for a little over a month, and despite the good times, it is time to be movin' on.

We were supposed to leave Ireland a week ago, but we are enjoying the country and have not gotten to see much of it due to the transportation and internet situation. Sooo...we have rescheduled our plane tickets to allow us to take a couple of weeks to cycle around the country. As you may know, we are not cyclists, nor are we in shape, so there is no telling how long this will last. It could turn out great...it could be a terrible idea, but that's the fun part of traveling. We have gotten together all of the gear, and thanks to a handful of new friends, we have borrowed some things and have only had to spend $100. The plan is to leave this Sunday and head west toward Galway. We have a campground directory and a map and that is the extent of the plan (we are getting better about not planning) Hope to be able to post pictures and make calls, and we'll do it as soon as we get some legit internet.

The bike trip will be our last hurrah in Ireland and then Krista and I will be parting ways for a while. She has bought her ticket home for early August, and I leave for Bangkok on August 25th. Worry not, we plan to reunite and things are still going very well for us. To everyone that we wanted to meet for Oktoberfest...I have had to face up to the black and white (or more accurately the black and red) and the fact that Europe is very expensive and if i stayed in it until October I would be completely broke instead of almost broke. I wish it wasn't so, but there are many fests yet to come I am sure, and I'll have to take a rain check for another year.

Sorry for the "all at once" news blast, but as always i never know when the next opportunity will come. Hope all is well with everyone...and to be in touch soon...

Friday, June 10, 2011

Howdy Ya'll !!!

Not much Internet, so I'll be quick...We are doing well here in Ireland, still at the gardens. I was able to check email today, so thanks to everyone for the birthday greetings. Some good news...we are getting permanent internet lined up for the house here and so, with any luck, we should be hooked back up to the grid in about a week or so and have the skype phone again as well! Gotta run, but we'll hopefully be in touch soon...

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Arrived in Ireland

Hi Everyone,

We have made it to Ireland...been here for about two days now. The queen decided to visit at the same time as us, so Dublin was packed and locked down, but otherwise we arrived uneventfully. We are staying at a 14 acre garden about an hour southwest of Dublin...it is the kind of place where you would have weddings or music festivals and it is really incredible. We are being put up in a very nice accommodation, the host is great, and the work looks like it will be varied and interesting....we think we'll have a great time here. I feel sort of like a broken record, but the bad news is that an internet connection has not yet been extended to the garden, and as such we don't have regular access. Right now I am connected through a tether from our host's cell phone, but the phone is usually with him and not here in the kitchen. Even when we can get it, this is a very bandwidth limited connection and so unfortunately uploading photos is pretty much out of the question. We'll still be taking them, but won't be able to post for a while. As for voice calls, the next time I get into town I am going to see about getting an international calling plan for our cellphone...but I am suspecting that this might be expensive. If it is reasonable, then calling will be much easier. Finally, thanks for all the email and for keeping in touch...we'll both be trying to reply as we can...when the phone is in the kitchen :)   Talk to you soon...

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Back in Spain !

It's Sunday, the 8th of May. I ate some bad fish for dinner last night, so I have plenty time for writing as the toilet and the wifi are conveniently close together...I won't go into details. We are enjoying our free days on the back end of what has turned out to be a very interesting two weeks back in Spain. We were monitors for a summer English language camp for kids. Of all of our work gigs, I knew the least about this one...due to a small language barrier. It wound up being a really cool and very different experience, but was also the most stressful thing I have done in recent memory. I'll recap some of the more interesting...

We arrived in Barcelona by way of a 20 hour ferry trip from Rome...for the record, I would not recommend this (when I booked, I did not notice that the departure and arrival days were different, in case you were wondering). Once in Barcelona, we made our way to the train station without any problems, now being pretty familiar with the metro system. At the train station, we called our host on our pre-paid cellphone which was kind enough to run out of money (literally, not embellishing) as the voice on the other end said, " when you get off the train, you'll want to ____ ." As the phone was bought in Greece, the instructions on how to reload were, well, Greek to me. We boarded a train headed in the right direction, and got off at the right station at about 10pm, wishing we knew what those next few words would have been. Being out of options, we went to a hotel and called a taxi...hoping the driver would know the place we were staying at, which was pretty big. She did, and so we were of again. Although only less than a mile from the hotel, my heart sank as I watched the glowing red numbers on the fare meter top $15, the amount of money we had left after all the meals on the ferry and the train tickets. I told the driver in broken Spanish that we were out of money for the fare, and would she please stop and point us in the right direction. She said that the fare was three times higher because this weekend was a festival, and that she would take us the rest of the way on what we had. Although we felt pretty bad, we were relieved as well. We checked in with no problems...the following day the real adventure was to begin:

As it turns out, we were to be the only English speaking monitors for the first group of kids in this brand new program. We met the host the first night who told us that he would have the instructions translated into English soon, but for the first two days or so, to just wing it. I though this sounded pretty disastrous, but stopped my brain from running with all the possibilities tomorrow might hold, and went to bed just a bit nervous. The following day, we met the other four monitors, none of whom spoke English...their kids were coming to learn Spanish. It took us about 4 days before we let go and stopped trying to figure out what was going on all the time...it turns out that is sort of how things are looked at here..."don't worry about it, it'll all work out just fine." The ultimate result was that we rarely knew what was happening (the kids usually knew more than we did) but we got to do some pretty cool stuff while "working": zip-lining, kayaking, archery...I should have been a camp counselor at home...

 A few days remain here, free time for the work over the last two weeks. If the rain clears up, we will do some hikes along the cliffs on the coast. Next stop Ireland!

Tuscany, Italy

Hey, Ya'll! (I miss saying Hey, Ya'll...who cares if auto correct thinks it's not a word, right?) Ahh, Tuscany, we can easily see why all of the old stone farmhouses here are being bought up by Europeans and Americans. This place is uniquely beautiful. Everywhere you look there is something to see...there is a saying here that the locals are very proud of: Take a empty picture frame and hold it up in front of you and Toscana will not disapoint. It is true, whereever you look you think you could be looking at a postcard or a painting. I don't really think it is worth trying to describe, but if you ever get the chance to go,  do; I am sure this will be one of my favorite places on this trip.

We stayed with some great people in a 700 year old farm house on top of a hill overlooking their olive tree grove and vineyard, with a line of huge Italian Cyprus on the next hill in one direction, and a post card panorama in the other. We built stone walls, made a greenhouse door, drove huge tractors to find giant boulders, weeded, and experienced some amazing Italian cooking (even made pasta by hand).

The area was dotted with ancient towns and covered with vineyards that produce the world famous Brunello Wine...but I'll let the photos do the rest of the talking. One thing is for sure...I will be visiting this place again... 

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

A pile of posts (i.e. not a quick read)

It turns out blog posts are a lot like dirty dishes, the more of them you need to do, the less you want to give in and get them done...but at some point you realize you have a serious mess on your hands and somehow find the motivation...

Much has happened since we last spoke, so I'll give a quick run through of everything. I think it's just as well though, as much of this part of the trip has been the ooooh, aahhhh sort of stuff, and pictures do a better job anyway.

Getting There: Unlike the ferries in Greece, our choice method of travel here in Italy has been the train. The Italian rail system is supposedly one of the best, and you can get to pretty much anywhere, even the smallest towns,  by train. And we have ...we have rolled from Bari in the south to many of the Tuscan towns in the north, and from there gone on to see Bologna, Venice, and Siena. Along the way we learned some important things. For example, if you get a ticket to a particular place and don't also buy a seat reservation, then you are allowed to get on the train, but you have no seat. If that train happens to be an overnight train from Bari to Sinalunga, then you sleep in the hallway and hope people are nice enough not to step on you but then an old lady does anyway. If you then learn from that lesson when you buy your overnight ticket and reservation from Venice to Sinalunga, you find that the reserved seats are in small cabins that seat six and have a door you can close. Then at 2 in the morning two obnoxious women get on and join you, one having the plague and the other having a fidgety kid without a seat, both seemingly incapable of controlling the volume of their voices. A final lesson is that planning to travel efficiently by taking overnight trains to be able to arrive refreshed at a new location usually does not work for the previously mentioned reasons, and in fact you will probably "arrive" so tired that you will sleep through the stop at Sinalunga and go all the way to Rome, hypothetically. Ah the wonders of budget travel!

Venice: Wow, it's about a cool as you probably think it is. Although it does not need to be said, I think the captivating part is just how different it is. Front steps of houses go right down to the water, peoples laundry is strung over the smaller canals on lines, boats are tied up out front. We watched a larger boat bring a delivery of beer kegs to the back door of a restaurant which renewed my interest in piracy as a viable profession. Really it is just a normal old city where half of the roads are canals instead, and the necessary differences ensue...but for that reason, it is so unique. Also the Basilica is pretty amazing, and I didn't bother with too many pictures because they just didn't capture it. The ceiling on the inside is covered with millions and millions of colored and gold leafed 1cm tiles that make up moasics larger and more complicated than anything I have ever seen. One final practical note on Venice...have you ever thought to yourself, "I have a pretty darn good sense of direction, I don't need a map to get around"? Well, good luck with Venice...you walk in the right direction for about the right distance, and there's you destination, in full view, right on the other side of a canal.


Bologna (buh-lone-yuh): A lesser known but equally beautiful and historic city in the north of Italy, It was one of the earliest centers of learning in the old world. A walled city, it had gates, towers, and walls to explore. We spent all day roaming around and had our second Italian pizza for lunch, which did not disappoint (although we are already missing Greece's Gyros a little). As you'll see in the pictures, we climbed up inside one of the city's many towers. It was taller and more impressive than it's leaning neighbor, which couldn't be climbed (I assume for safety reasons). It soared above the city and gave an incredible view.

This is dragging on a bit longer than I thought it would, so I'll do Tuscany next time (I think it deserves it's own post anyway). I am recovered form my cold, and have given it to Krista. Other than that we are having a great time here in the Tuscan countryside working on all sorts of interesting projects. Till next time...

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Tuscany, A glorious return to the Internet...

Quick note: Thanks to all for the email and blog comments, we have read them all...Internet has been really hard to get the last few weeks and we have gotten behind on many things. Now that we are planted in one spot for a while (Tuscany, Italy) we plan on catching up. There is WiFi here so it will be much easier to upload the photos, return some email, and make phone calls...we'll be in touch soon!

DISASTER STRIKES

OH NO...the worst possible thing that can happen on this sort of a trip has happened...well maybe not the worst thing, but still pretty bad...I have lost our wallet in Bari, Italy (oh by the way, we made it to Italy OK!)...in the wallet were all of our credit cards, some cash, and our passports (you know, those things you should never be without abroad). For those of you prone to fainting, I'll go ahead and tell you the story ends well and disaster is in fact averted...

It all started on a sunny and particularly nice afternoon. I had ripped my $10 Ross jacket a few days previous, and was generally frustrated with it because it always made my back all sweaty...so I decided (Krista decided) to go get a new one. Long story short, the new one, while much more fashionable, had really shallow pockets, and you can probably imagine where this is headed. Only about 15 minutes from swapping jackets, I went to pay for some famous Italian gellato and the wallet was gone. A terrible, sickening, gut wrenchingly awful feeling washed over me. We retraced all our steps to find nothing. After giving up the search later that evening, I called Uncle Sam to report the sad news. The agent, several thousand miles away says to me: "Yep, they are at the central Bari police department along with some credit cards, cash, scuba diver card, ferry tickets, and a very ugly wallet." As it turns out the Italian police are very friendly and the fine citizens of Bari are quite honest...

And we are off again...

Oh, and props to the US Government for working so efficiently (I wonder when I'll get to say that again)





Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Santorini, Greece

Santorini...where to begin. A three hour ferry from Crete and we arrived. I must say, it is worth all the hype...it is a pretty cool place. The island is small, and in the shape of a donut that a cop took a bite out of. It formed when an ancient volcano exploded and then sank leaving the donut and a 1,000 foot deep crater in the middle (full of seawater), with a small volcano still in the very center. Anyhow, through some now finely tuned haggling we got a hotel room for dirt cheap, saw the sun rise, and then got some much needed sleep. The next day we rented a four wheeler and started cruisin' all over the place...which was pretty easy as you can get from one end to the other in about 30 minutes. The island is completely surrounded with winding roads and perilous cliffs...very exciting for me, but Krista has some white hair now.  We have tried all sorts of tasty stuff and eaten more gyros in a week then one should probably eat in a lifetime.

Some stories worth mentioning:

 Tonight we drove out to one tip of the island to see the lighthouse. On the way back we saw an open cafe with a nice view of the caldera that looked like a genuine family run place, so we decided to stop in. A sign out front said, "Low prices, complete meal with local caught and fried fish...enough for 2, only $6." I thought that was an unbelievably good deal, so I told the waitress that we would have that (I have been craving fried fish). What soon arrived was a huge platter of what appeared to be fried bait. Staring me in the face, literally, was a pile of little fishes that looked strikingly similar to the sardines that we use for bait, deep fried whole. I quickly realized that I would have to find a way to eat this so as not to look like a total jerk. This was all too much for Krista, who is only slowly overcoming a general dislike for all seafood. She helped me to de-bone them as I ate to get it over with more quickly and to make it look like she had eaten some also. Appearance aside, they were actually pretty tasty. We stopped again on the way home and got her some dinner...

Unrelated but hilarious:
 It is spring break apparently and so small groups of adventurous spring breakers have been turning up here, looking a bit displaced as it is low season and there is not much of that sort of fun to be had yet. As we were settling in tonight, a knock is heard at the door...Krista answers..."Um, Hi...we are three Americans who are just randomly knocking on doors to try and meet some people to try and find something to do, but, um, you look a little older...do you have any recommendations for something to do in the area"? Krista (who has recently been on a bit of an "I'm getting old and woe is me" kick) in response: "How old do you think I am!?" 19 year old spring breakers: "Um, your 20's I guess"... Jared in the background "he he he he"
Good times...

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Headed to Santorini

We found cheap ferry tickets to Santorini, Greece, and so somewhat spontaneously (apparently the ferry schedules change randomly) we are on the late-night ferry headed to what is supposed to be one of the more unique and beautiful islands. Again, we are a few weeks ahead of the season. In Greece this does not just mean that things are slow...it means that almost everything is closed and transportation is sparse. But, it also means things are cheaper and the crowds are smaller; so there are advantages as well. Everywhere we go we are being jokingly told that we are the first tourists of the season.

We are a bit ready to get to our next HelpX...it is nice being on our own, but the money goes very quickly when you are traveling traditionally. We feel like we are "bare bones-ing" it,  but it seems like there are holes in my pockets. Food, entrance fees, buses, bottled water (apparently water fountains don't exist in europe...actually I am sitting next to one as I write this, but it's the only one I've seen)...it all adds up really quickly.

On Santorini we plan to get a mo-ped and cruise around on that...should be interesting so long as the ridiculous winds the Greek islands have been getting settle a little (reminding me of your neck of the woods, Dad)

Till next time...

Monday, March 21, 2011

South Coast of Crete

We have moved on to the south coast of Crete and found a little sun! Different scenery down here...lots of gorges and cliffs sweeping down to the sea. We are at an awesome hostel in Plakias, Crete and plan to do a hand full of day walks in the area without our packs to see the area (did a 6 hour hike today!). Next we are off to some of the other Greek islands...Rhodes, Milos, Santorini...not really sure, but we are liking it here. The tourist season is still a couple of weeks away for the area, so a lot of things are still closed...but you can see a little more local culture that way, and less of the crowds. We might not have Internet for a while, so I will probably be a little out of touch until we make it to Italy, but all is well! Pictures at the next easy Internet access spot...

Monday, March 14, 2011

Crete, Greece

Crete was not exactly the Mediterranean paradise we were hoping for...at least in terms of the weather. I guess escaping winter is a little more difficult than I thought. So far we have seen snow, sleet, freezing rain, etc...all carried by gale force winds. The people here say they can't remember it ever being this bad...just Greece's way of saying hello! I guess. Anyhow, the last couple of days it has warmed up and dried out, and I almost have all the mud off of my shoes. With the clear skies I can now see the north coast stretched out in front of me, and huge snow covered peaks in the distance. The nature park we are helping at is perched up on top of the hills, about 15 minutes from the coast and the views are incredible; unfortunately the photos will not even come close to showing it.

 Here at the park we have been  feeding the animals, building some things and just helping to get ready for the season and the guests. ( Jake, I would like to get on the video chat and show you how I feed the chameleons, but I think mom would not be too happy because you would want one for sure!)

When we arrived the Carnival celebration was getting started, which was really interesting to see...a huge street party and parade. The best part was that there is no theme to it at all. There are thousands of people in groups of 50 or so dressed up in costume, and they ranged from Mario Bros to Scottish Kilts to drag...tried to get some of it in photos. Other than that we have been exploring the old and new towns. Plenty of traditional life still going on, and plenty of traditional dishes. The local liquors are raki and ouzo. Ouzo is like having your brains smashed up in a bowl with ten pounds of licorice. The raki is like being beat up and mugged by a bunch of grapes when you turn down the wrong alley on the lower east side. They are both reasonably priced.

We will be doing some sightseeing for a couple of days on our way to the port, and from there we will be catching a ferry to the island of Santorini to have a look at where they take all of the postcards for Greece...then on to Italy!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Made it to Crete...

Hi All,

Made it to Crete OK after many hours of traveling. Getting settled in and will hopefully be posting some more pictures soon. It is Carnival today, which is a huge party (catholic thing), and it is a big deal on Crete...we're heading down to the town to check it out. I have heard from a couple of people that the blog has been down some...I don't know what the deal with that is, but if it continues to be a problem, i'll switch it to another address so please tell me if you have any more trouble with it. 

Yasas!

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Portugal

Hola,

Our time in Portugal is about up. I am now on my way back to Madrid on the overnight train to catch a flight to Athens...next stop Greece! The next 24 hours or so will not be easy, but will certainly leave plenty of time for traveloging.  The town we were in was called Valenca...it is right on the Minho River that divides Portugal and Spain. Our job was to help out at a holiday retreat called Yavanna so that they would be ready for guests in the Spring. Some of our work included: building a fence to support raspberry vines, stacking chopped logs, removing a huge pampas grass (don't ever plant a pampas grass),  burning brush, trimming ivy...to name a few. In exchange we stayed two weeks in one of their great rental houses in the good company of the owners, an English couple, Eunice and Mark. Eunice was a professional chef in past years, and joining them for the occasional meal or frequent "tea time" was a real treat. It was also refreshing to hear English being spoken, something I had not anticipated missing. The region is an interesting mix of old and new, ancient architecture and age old traditions are everywhere you look, as well as all of the modern conveniences...the church bells ringing out the hours can be heard throughout the entire valley.  Local wines are made by almost every family; it is hard to find a house that does not have at least a couple of grape vines for this purpose, although few sell it commercially outside the valley. These wines are available at the central cafe' for about .50 a glass, making for fun afternoons and interesting bike rides. Every local town does a big "market" on a different day...we checked out a couple of these and were amazed by the size of them and the great prices. I drooled over a tent selling beautiful new copper stills in every size, but decided the chance of passing immigration with one was low.
 Already there has been some adjusting and settling, but Mark and Eunice's place was so comfortable we have had an easy time of it. It can be trying to be in a place where you don't speak the language or understand the customs; even the simplest tasks are difficult and everything takes twice as long as it should. It is a strange thing to go all day without understanding a word anyone says...to give an over-dramatic example, it is like watching a movie...whats going on is familiar, but you can't really interact with it. That said, everything is exciting and new and it all feels very adventurous. Hopefully our generally good luck will continue and we will get more used to being in such unfamiliar surroundings. In a couple of days we will be in Crete, Greece, and from there I will try and post some pictures of Portugal.

Adios!

Random Observations....

Before I recount my time in Portugal, I want to share a couple of random observations.  If this sort of thing bores you, then you are so warned, and may want to skip ahead...I may have skipped it myself, but I have a 6 hour wait in this train station and am particularly bored...
People here are very particular about where they sit: The first time this occurred to me was in the bus station in Spain. We were waiting to catch a local bus to Portugal. The entire bus station was empty...a big open room with tons of benches and lots of different seating ares. We were between arrivals and so we were the only people there, except for one other lady. I went wandering off to try and find info on our bus, leaving Krista with our bags. I came back about 10 minutes later to find this woman sitting in the seat immediately next to her, our bags encroaching on her space somewhat.  No attempts at conversation were made...she just sat. Also, Krista was in an end seat, which would have made it particularly awkward should I have tried to rejoin her...luckily the bus was about to pull out, and we ran off to catch it.
The bus itself was also very empty...The seats were not  large, so we each sat in an isle seat across from each other.  At the first stop, a group of older women got on and walked back through the empty rows to where we were sitting. They stood there, half looking at us and half looking around as though trying to figure out what to do... he driver was looking at them as well.  After what seemed an eternity, I got up and sat with Krista, mainly out of curiosity. They immediately filed into the seats where I had been and we were off for Portugal.
Finally (yes the ramble does have an end) as I sit here in the train station, what brought this topic to mind: I have a headache and have a long wait for the train, Krista is off in town shopping. I am sitting in a corner of the train station with 6 benches, all empty except for me. I decide that it will be safe to lie down on one for a little while. Wrong. On the edge of sleep I am approached by a security guard followed closely by an older woman. He tells me that I can not lay on the bench, I say excuse me; she stands behind him watching.  As I sit up, she sits down next to me...all other benches remain empty.  A few minutes later we are joined by two of her friends, all other benches remain empty. I wonder if I am missing something here, and secretly wish to my self that breakfast had consisted of beans, hard boiled eggs, garlic , beer,  and bran flakes.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Madrid and Portugal

Hello again...I have been reading the comments and I guess it wold be a good time to mention where the photos are...If you look at the right side of the page, just under the maps, you will see and link called TRIP PHOTOS, and that is where they will be. Once there ,the slide-show icon is an easy way to check them out if you don't feel like clicking through them all, and they are arranged into sets by location. I very quickly realized that it would be difficult to add the photos to the blog also, so they will probably be there exclusively, unless I witness something earthshaking that I feel the need to share immediately. That said, let me rewind just a tad....back to the plane flight from New York to Madrid...

So, what has happened to air travel in the US? This flight was el cheapo (brushing up on my Spanish)...as cheap as they get ...and this is what I got: LEGROOM...hot towels...dinner... free beer, wine, or drinks (I had all three)...breakfast...newly released movies I would actually want to watch, etc, etc. My hat goes off to Jet Airways India. Any of that sound familiar?, cause it didn't to me...

Anyhow, I didn't sleep much due to all the free drinks and entertainment and Indian babies, so I was pretty tired upon arrival to Madrid. Even with my brain working a bit slow, the Madrid metro was simple compared to New York and we arrived at our hostel in the Puerto del Sol square with no real trouble; save mentioning my back and shoulders from my pack. I have a feeling that some "essentials" might start getting "accidentally" left behind here and there. That night we slept with two Asian girls at the hostel, and I have to say, I have never heard anyone breath so lightly. For someone who can not sleep through snoring, this was very refreshing and better that I was expecting from the hostel stories I have heard. The following day we explored Madrid, got used to fumbling with language, saw the sights and found a grocery store. The food here is incredibly cheap compared to what I am used to...a bottle of Lemonchello: $5, and large jar of pesto: $1, a can of "gourmet" olives: $.60, a liter of decent beer: $1...so much for losing any weight while on the trip.

Late that night things started to go a little less smoothly as we boarded the train for our first gig in Portugal. There were two trains on the track, which one was ours?...got me...anyone around to help?...nope.  So we picked one, and got settled in. Luckily the dice rolled my way and we were on our way to Vigo. Upon arriving, there were no clear directions on how to get to the bus station to get to the town we needed to be in...I did my best to ask a security guard,  and understood almost none of what he said. We sat wondering what to do and I decided to try to call our first host. Nope. Could not work the payphone...which is a little humbling. The guard was nice enough to come back with a map to the bus station with a walking route drawn out and we were off. Once at the bus station i somehow found the right bus and we got on, and unfortunately stayed on well past out destination and got dropped off in the countryside of rural Spain. I wish I had a picture of the scene and my face, but my mind was on other things. The driver, realizing this, phoned another bus and had it come by and take us back to town for free. This was about the time things started looking up. There our hosts picked us up, and we arrived in Portugal to a beautiful accommodation, a stocked fridge, and a cold beer...Things are looking just fine...

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

NC - DC - NY

The traveling so far has been at a very fast pace, and I didn't really get a chance to write anything along the way...no internet. Here is a quick catch up. First, I made stop in NC to leave my truck (my last possession)  behind and to see my new nephew...I can't wait to see what he looks like in a year (or however long this thing lasts for). Next was a train trip to DC to see my family and some of Krista's Friends, did the monument walk, hit some trendy bars (be glad you don't live in DC...the PBR is not as good when it costs $4), hit a guy on a moped...you know, the usual. The pigeons and squirrels in DC are very well fed and look like they should probably get on P90X. Next was New York, and as you have probably been there, I think my experience can be summed up like this: Brrrrr...want some tickets?, want some tickets?, want some tickets?...hand bags?, watches?, hand bags?, watches?, handbags?, watches?...that can be eaten?...it costs WHAT?....ooooh aaahhhh! In two days we managed to see Times Square, Little Italy, China Town, The Brooklyn Bridge, The WTC construction project and monument, Central Park, A Broadway show, A Stand Up show, and a New York Pizza...which I think speaks to how awesome the Metro is...good training for Metros in other languages as well. That's all for now...we are in Madrid, Spain after almost a full 24 hours of travel and I am going to sleep...

Saturday, February 5, 2011

BACK in JAX

Back in Jax now; got a chance to see some people here before heading out for good. I am also redrawing my plan a bit after the first hiccup hit yesterday...Ever heard of the Schengen Agreement?...yeah, me either. Well it dissolves the internal borders of most European countries to make travel between them easier. Sounds like a good thing, right? Well it also limits your time within to 90 days. The first time I read it I thought it meant 90 days per country...nope...90 days for all of Europe. So, Ill be redrawing the route a little...

Monday I'm off to NC to see my brother and new nephew, then DC by train, then Baltimore, and finally fly out of New York on the 15th!!!

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Back in Tampa

After many difficult days of packing, cleaning, and painting baseboards, I am done moving out. I can hardly believe that I have called Jacksonville home for 7 years; I am going to miss it. I will be in Tampa spending time with the family until I take off on February 5th...the excitement continues to build, and many many details are starting to get sorted out (finally)!