Laos

The last few days: Passed through immigration and crossed the border into Laos with surprisingly little hassle...just pay Laos immigration $35 US and you're as good as gold. For being a border town, Huay Xai struck me as a pretty nice place, and I immediately noticed that everything was a little more chilled out than on the Thai side. There were still people trying to get you into their restaurants or offering you a ride, but here you get the impression that they are just offering...which is a breath of fresh air. The following morning I boarded the "Slow Boat" (they weren't lyin') for Pak Beng, stayed a night, and continued on the even slower slow boat trip to Luang Prabang. The boat experience was interesting...really long, narrow river boats with rows and rows of car seats bolted to the floor. The scenery along the way was awesome for the first couple of hours. Ultimately it was a good choice because they kept cold beer on board and it was just as long as the bus would have been...and the bus doesn't have cold beer! The long trip gave me a chance to get to know a couple of pretty cool people, and two Australians (one actual Australian, one pseudo Australian)...we all whiled away the long hours with card games and cold Beer Lao. Beer Lao, by the way, is a very respectable beer, especially compared to what I have been drinking in Thailand, and is Laos' #1 export. Coming in at $1 for a 32 ounc-er, it's a smart choice!

Arriving finally in Luang Prabang after two days on the river, I was happy to find it to be a pretty unique place. Left over from the French Colonial period, it seems a bit out of place in the middle of the jungle. It has been pretty well preserved through the world heritage program, and the streets are lined with period buildings and houses. Alongside the Lao food fare, there are vendors selling crepes and fresh baguettes...a strange mix, and not really good to be eaten together. After 2 days of looking around, I decided to keep going. It was a good base to do trekking to waterfalls and such, but given the amount of jungle I have seen, I am not too keen to be paying anyone to walk me around in it at this point. Also I am now in the double red malaria zone, so I am playing it a little extra careful!

After the bumpiest, most scenic, most nerve racking, craziest 7 hours of my life bus ride I have ever been on, I arrived in what I was fairly warned would be the armpit of Laos, and boy were they right. This place is a stinking, rotten cesspool that is tourism at it's worst. There is not a shred of culture left here...it has become a stop off on the way to the capital city where all of the sort of backpackers I have been avoiding have descended in droves to indulge in buckets of alcohol, cheap food, and American sitcoms. If I here the into song to "Friends" one more time I might cry. Needless to say, I am only staying one night. If the weather holds, I think I am going to skip the bus ride to Vientiane and Kayak there instead! I am pretty excited about this...so I hope it works out. That should be my last stop in Laos, and then I'll be headed to Vietnam...

Laos Bound!

After much deliberation and several changes of plan, I have decided to stick to my original plan and cross the border here in Norther Thailand to Laos (a very safe and stable country!). The weather here makes it or breaks it, and although I am little ready to head out of the jungle, there are an awesome couple of days of sunshine expected for this part of Laos, and i am going to take advantage! Anyhow, I have bunch of mosquito repellant left, and I don't want to waste it!

Last Day: Chiang Khong to Phu Chee Fah

Despite being a bit road weary at this point, this was a really rewarding day of riding. I am much more comfortable on the bike now; much more relaxed and not nearly as jumpy when someone with a cart full of melons (or something) pulls up to a quick stop at an intersection ahead. Almost back at 100% from the spicy salad ordeal, I was able to focus on the scenery which was the most stunning so far on the loop. The road, which was of surprising quality for it's remoteness, wound it's through the jungle mountains along the Thai - Laos border with frequent views of the rolling hills below that seemed to stretch out for a hundred miles. The temperature change going up into these higher elevations was even more drastic than the first day. In fact, it was down right cold...which is a strange sensation when you've been riding through jungle scenery for days, sweating, and are suddenly freezing in the same surroundings. This temperature difference also created a strange and very surreal effect: High above me were the standard clouds, but here there was a second set down below, drifting just between the tops of the lower hills. This gave the feeling that you were looking down from a much greater height. Occasionally, one of these would drift up on the wind and instantly blanket everything in misty white. Then, just as fast, it would be gone again. The slopes of the red dirt hills here seemed impossible, looking like they shouldn't even stand if they were made of rock...and sometimes they didn't. In several places large sections had slid off to cover the road. With the original plants still attached,  it looked like there was no road at all. Once, as I was about to round a corner, I was stopped by a man with a sign I didn't understand. He was clearly telling me to wait, but for what or for how long I had no idea. After a few minutes I started wondering what the deal was and if I might be able to convince him somehow that I needed to keep moving...then BOOOOM! The blast made me jump, and from around the corner I saw a shower of rock and dirt get thrown over the edge of the hill...the road was clear. It's good to listen to people with red signs.

Shortly after I gave in to the cold and damp and stopped for the night. The following day would take me back out of the hills, and back to Chaing Rai to return the bike. As soon as I came down out of the jungle and turned on to the main road, the towns were much larger and.the cafes once again sported either a Pepsi or Coke sign to greet you. The last few days have been an incredible look into "real" Thai life, and I am so glad that I got to experience that along with what I have seen to far. The very best spots were those found during the day, off the map, along the way!

Mai Sai to Chiang Khong

Left the border town of Mai Sai nicely rested, and had a easy day of riding. Passed the golden triangle, which is a spot on the river where the borders of Thailand, Burma, and Laos form a three way corner. The opium trade used to flourish here, making it a very famous spot...but as they no longer grow or process opium, it is now just a terrible tourist trap based on a geographic location. I was quasi interested, but as I rolled up to the sight of thousands of Chinese tourists mulling around several massive tour buses with cameras on tripods clicking away...well I just kept on rolling. It was an uneventful day until my ever growing sense of food adventure confidence caused Dylan's words (if it's from a street vendor, make sure you see it cooked in front of you) to escape  me momentarily...well it turns out these words of advice apply to salads as well. A salad seems harmless enough, but alas, it was not cooked in front of me. I got back on the bike, very satisfied with having tried the famous spicy Thai salad that I had been hearing so much about; the warning signs started almost immediately. As I approached Chiang Khong, I was sure of what I was in for. The feeling of being punched in the stomach lasted for about a day and a half and I slept it off in the guesthouse...all the while saving on food costs! I got to closely observe the local lizard in a way I would not have otherwise...they look like geckos, chirp like birds, and spend most of there time waiting upside down on the ceiling for something tasty to land nearby. They are everywhere, but people like them around for their mosquito hunting skills, as did I. After a 48 hour white rice diet, I am basically back in action!

Here's lookin' at you, Burma

After a successful day, I am sitting in a very nice bamboo and wicker bungalow in the far north of Thailand, looking across the river that separates Thailand and Burma. It was a long driving day...I started out by going down some of the dirt trails that went to the villages surrounding Mae Salong. It was a look back in time at people living self sufficiently off of the land, but with a handful of modern things thrown in the mix. After that I made way towards Mai Sai...the long way round. I made the long way even longer by getting myself nice and lost, and almost drove into Burma through a non border crossing area, but I'm pretty sure they would have stopped me. From there it was smooth sailing through some of the most stunning scenery imaginable...an awesome drive, perfect for the bike. The last stretch was the best...21 km due north right along a mountain crest that forms a natural border between the two countries. It is a highly watched area and I had to pass through military checkpoints every couple of miles. It is a bit disconcerting to see kids looking about half my age holding automatic weapons...they were all really nice though. The good news for me was that it was almost all downhill, because I was about out of gas and was under the impression that this would probably be the absolute worst place on this little adventure to run out of gas. I rolled all the way to Mai Sai...no problem. There is a border crossing here, but I don't think I'm going to go to Burma...I like the idea of sitting here with a cold beer and watching it across the river...

Mae Salong: Some good news...and some bad news...

Isn't that always the way?... Wasn't expecting to have internet tonight, but I am glad I do as I had an awesome day....which is the good news! First, I managed to get moving pretty early...got into town (Chiang Rai) and got a very nice map of Northern Thailand for less than a dollar by trading in another map I had. Then a rain poncho, because after all this is a jungle and, like Ireland, it's green for a reason! Next I got myself set up with a small engine motorbike, left the majority of my stuff at the guesthouse I stayed in the previous night, and I was off! Once I made the turn off the main road into the mountains, the ride was incredible! The road winds in and out of jungle hills, rice paddys, banana groves, and rivers (mom: if you can clear it with customs I can bring back about 100,000 baby banana trees in case your's don't make it). As soon as I started to climb up into the hills the temp began to drop as well...it has to be at least 10 degrees cooler up here which is such a relief after the last couple of weeks. It felt like someone just switched on the AC at one point...it was that quick a change. The owner of tonight's guesthouse told me that this is where Thai "tourists" come to escape the heat.

Having arrived in Mae Salong, I couldn't be happier. This is the sort of place I was hoping to find coming to Thailand...it is a village perched up in the mountains surrounded by tea plantations and beautiful scenery. I have not seen a western tourist all day, and in connection with that, the locals seem even friendlier than usual...which is saying something! I had an awesome dinner with several cups of local tea which I saw coming right up out of the fields. I am really looking forward to the next few days as I move further and further from the bustle and exhaust of the cities down south.

So whats the bad news in that? Well, just before dinner I took the bike up to the peak of the mountain that looks down on Mae Salong, atop of which sits a beautiful temple. As is customary, I took off my shoes before entering and went in to have a look around. While I was inside a light rain began to fall which gave the marble flight of steps out back a nice slicking up. Still inside, I made a donation to the Buddha, and then went out the back way to my demise. Despite thinking to myself as I went out the door, "man I bet that marble is slick...I had better be careful on that"...well lets just say it only took me three steps to get down a set of steps that should have taken at least 10. I landed on my good ankle (I'll head Haley off here  and say that at least I'm walking a bit more evenly now), and despite the ridiculous smoothness of the marble, still managed to cut my hand. But the real hero is my camera which selflessly decided to save my backside by being in my back pocket and taking the brunt of the fall. The camera's sacrifice will not be forgotten, but unfortunately I won't be posting any photos for a while. Despite the loss of the camera and the injury I am still in a pretty good mood...if you could have seen where it happened, you would agree that it could really have been much worse (but you can't cause I couldn't take a picture)...

Headed off the map!

Well, it was a long journey from the southern islands to the north...very long country. Went back to Bangkok by ferry, and then by bus. Then took the boat train (the tracks were flooded but they went for it anyway) to Chiang Mai, and then finally to Chiang Rai. I'm starting to feel like all the cities are looking a bit alike...sooooo...I have decided to rent a bike and take a week to go see the mountains in the far north along the Burma and Lao borders. Found a nicely planned itinerary online, and I'm gonna go for it. So, I'll probably be disconnected for a bit...I expect to be back to Chiang Rai in about a week. Here is the plan if anyone is interested. And I'm off !!!!!!!!  Woooo Hoooo !!!!

Travel Plan Link

New Photos...

If you are following along with the photos...I have put a bunch up from Ko Phi Phi. The link is below...or always on the right side of this main page. By the way...an easy way to view them is to click on the album and then click the slideshow button at the top of the page. Once that loads you can click the "Show Info" button near the top of the page to see the comments and titles...

Trip Photos Link!

Ko Lanta

After about 5 days, I have trekked, kayaked, and swam over almost all of Phi Phi island...and it's time to put it in the rear view mirror! Boarded the boat for Ko Lanta (another Thai island nearby), and about an hour later, I was there. Spent most of the hour frantically trying to dry and / or wash my passport, computer, chargers, wallet, etc. Lesson learned: coke cans are not as thick over here...i.e., don't put one in the small bag you carry around will all of your most important stuff that you want to keep an eye on. Several times since then I have set the computer down somewhere for a couple of hours and returned to find a procession of sugar ants headed inside it searching out the last remnants of that sweet American goodness. At least it's being enjoyed by something.

Ko Lanta is not really that different from Ko Phi Phi, but considering the geographic closeness of these two places, I would say that the differences are remarkable. Being far less "touristed" than it's neighbor, Lanta really shows the effects that tourism is having on the country. This Island definitely offers a picture of traditional Thai island life that was impossible to see on Phi Phi where almost every person and resource was devoted to the tourist trade. It's a shame that tourism can change the feel of a place so completely, and that you have to get further and further off the map to see the things you went there to see. Anyhow, to aid in getting off that map a bit, my Norwegian friend and I decided to rent motorcycles and just drive. I think the first sign that this might be a bad idea was the fact that an alarming percentage of the other tourists that had been around a few days were bandaged in one way or another with wraps and slings off all shapes and sizes. A little investigating found that these were exclusively the result of motorbike accidents. Despite the risks, they were all tempted by the complete freedom of having the bike, which, with fuel, cost less than $10 per day to rent. I was just as tempted, and now I have a broken arm...good thing for travel insurance, huh? Actually, I'm just making sure you're still awake...I rode almost 200km all over that island (yes, with a helmet) and had a blast with no problems at all...but I can see how they can be a bit dangerous...especially in a place with effectively no road rules! The most entertaining actual accident I heard of was a couple of girls who rented the bike from the hotel, saddled up and slowly puttered up to the main road. They stopped, looked both ways, and then floored it launching themselves across the road at full speed into a ditch full of black muck on the opposite side. They and the bike then sank into the murk...no major injuries. We avoided the ditches and various other obstacles and went to the deserted northern part of the island, fishing villages on the east side, and the national park in the south. We even found a pier with a long tail boat (pictured in album) and hired it for a couple of hours to take us around a limestone island with lots of sea caves off the coast.

Tho other really remarkable thing about this place was the Muslim influenced Thai food...absolutely amazing. I will be learning to make some of these dishes when I get home...I have never been introduced to so many new flavors and spices in such a short time...a real treat! I am now ready to more on, and I have more than 24 hours of travel time to look forward to as I relocate to Chang Mai in the northern part of the country, which I guess is longer than it looks! Sorry about the arm joke...

Thailand's Islands

It only took about two days in the Khao San Road area to become pretty overwhelmed, so I saw as much of the nearby "old town" as I could before heading off to a different area near the embassies to arrange some visas and see a different part of Bangkok. I found a guesthouse with good internet and hit the books to find the next place. Despite it being the rainy season, it turned out that there was to be a rare week long weather window for the southern islands...so I began trying to pick which one to visit (terrible problem, I know...but there are lots to choose from). Phi Phi Island was looking good for a first stop, so I boarded an overnight bus (12 hours) with a Norwegian guy from the guesthouse who was headed the same direction. He is also traveling alone, so we figured we would stick together for a while (and no, Krista has not been replaced by a harry nordic guy... just to head off that question). The only notable experiences from the bus ride were the very stylized curtains on the inside of the bus (as seen in photos) and the television program that everyone else seemed to be enjoying that made me want to throw myself out the emergency exit window. The following morning we arrived in Phuket, took a look around, and decided the town was best experienced as a bus station. There was a boat leaving for Phi Phi at 10am...and I was on it!

The first thing you see after the hour long crossing are the jungle covered limestone formations that give these islands their unique appearance. With cameras clicking away, the boat pulled up to the dock at Phi Phi and I got ready to run the usual gauntlet of hotel, taxi, and attraction touts that always collect in an area that regularly pushes out fresh tourists. The competition among hotels is high in the low season here, so I did some price shopping around town until I had sweat away every last drop of water in my body...but at the last minute found an amazing deal that just got the day off to the right start...

From there it was a good mix of off the map exploring, relaxing at the infinity pool included with the room, and enjoying some cheap (served in a bucket) beach-side drinks. An interesting side note about the bucket drinks is that if you find 25 buckets that others have abandoned (or drink 25 yourself), you get a free bucket drink. I decided this was the greatest thing since sliced bread, gave it a shot, and indeed did get a free bucket of drink. The only problem with combing the beach for abandoned plastic buckets when you are already living out of a bag is the feeling of walking that seemingly finer and finer line between traveler and homelessness.

Anyhow, Evan (the Norwegian guy) is obsessed with photodocumenting (word?) every grain of sand along the way...so I have plenty of photos to highlight the island...

Next we are headed to Ko Lanta, which is supposed to be much further off the tourist map, and on the way back to the mainland... :)